“I hope you’re starving because that’s probably the best way to enjoy Chinatown,” says Aaron Friedman, my tour guide, on my first evening in San Francisco. After a whirlwind sunset sailing trip on the Pacific Ocean under the Golden Gate Bridge, I was eager to see how this country’s oldest Chinatown would satisfy my appetite.
I needn’t have worried. From legendary dishes crafted by a chef who has cooked for Chinese presidents to cosy dumpling joints, this 150-year-old hub of Chinese immigrants offers everything from upscale restaurants to affordable eateries, bakeries, shops, and bars.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The Iconic Peking Duck
Entering through the iconic green-tiled Dragon Gate, I was immediately captivated by the red lanterns, pagoda-style buildings, and ornate lamp posts. My first stop was Z & Y Peking Duck, an award-winning restaurant renowned for its Peking Duck. Chef Lijun Han worked his magic, presenting the dish with perfectly crisp skin – its defining feature. Prepared over 48 hours, it’s served tableside with rice paper wrappers and sweet bean sauce. Honestly, I couldn’t get enough of it. Han, who owns the restaurant, previously served top politicians and diplomats at the Chinese consulate.
Photo: Max Whittaker
I also sampled the Peking Duck with caviar-a seemingly odd combination that delivered an explosion of flavours. Chinatown is clearly evolving, giving a modern twist to classic dishes. I also enjoyed Xiao Long Bao-soupy dumplings that burst in your mouth – and for those who can handle the heat, there was a fiery chicken dish with explosive chilli peppers.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The next day, I joined a food walk that explored various city neighbourhoods, with the final stop being Chinatown. Despite having indulged in pizzas and tacos throughout the day, the aroma of dim sum reignited my appetite.
From Dim Sum and Fortune Cookies to Mai Tais
Entering House of Dim Sum, I was struck by the buzz of this popular spot. Its standout feature: homemade, Cantonese-style dim sum and steamed buns. The shrimp dumplings were juicy, the pork buns flavorful, and I couldn’t get enough of their pork dumplings. They open at 6:45 a.m., as dim sum is a popular breakfast item.
Photo: Max Whittaker
Photo: Max Whittaker
Next door, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory – a small space in operation since 1962 – plays a key role in making these cookies a staple in Chinese restaurants across the U.S. Using an old, secret recipe, they produce up to 10,000 fortune cookies a day – all by hand.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
I walked in to see the magic for myself. The sweet vanilla aroma filled the air as an old machine rolled out the cookies. A woman expertly placed the fortune slip inside and shaped each cookie with a metal rod. I enjoyed a couple, and while I don’t remember my fortune, witnessing the process and seeing people eagerly crack open their cookies was a delightful experience. You can even customize your fortune for a small fee – something I wish could be done in real life.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
Chinatown’s bars are also a must-visit, particularly the dive bars. Li Po, set to celebrate its centennial in 2037, is a local favourite. The mai tai, a cocktail with a cult following that includes celebrities like Anthony Bourdain, is a must-try. This sweet yet potent drink, made with Chinese wine, rum, and pineapple juice, packs quite a punch.
As I walked back, I realised that Chinatown’s charm lies in its vibrant energy and diverse flavours – from the pungent garlic in one alley to the delicate aromas wafting from pastry shops. This is indeed a food lover’s paradise in San Francisco’s most dynamic neighbourhood.
About the Author: The joy of discovering new places has kept Pallavi Pasricha on the road for more than 20 years and has taken her to over 30 countries. For her, a destination is much more than just its landmarks-it’s an intricate blend of hidden gems, the stories of its people, and the unique flavours of its local cuisine. To her, every quiet alley, bustling market and traditional dish tells a story that adds depth to the experience. She finds joy in uncovering lesser-known spots that reveal the true character of a place.
