Walk down Chapel Road, from the Mount Carmel end, and you’ll be met with a colourful two-storey structure. The facade is filled with hues of pink, blue and white. An illustration inspired by Hokusai’s iconic ‘The Great Wave Off Kanagawa’ is merged with that of a moka pot. All the hints are there: Bandra, Asian, coffee, reinvention. You’re standing at the location of the neighbourhood’s newest addition to the F&B scene, Mokai. You may think, what’s one more new restaurant in Bandra? But this is a place that, since its inception, has proudly declared that this is not just another Bandra cafe. Does it live up to its promises? We visited to find out.
As we walk towards the entrance, we discern echoes of Bandra bungalows in the roof and wooden accents. Inside, the layout retains hints of that old-world charm. But there is no doubting the transformation it has undergone – this is an undeniably modern, 21st-century space. The decor is largely inspired by Japanese motifs. There are minimalist design elements that celebrate imperfections – a nod to the wabi-sabi aesthetic – from the deconstructed coffee counter to the rough brushstrokes of the murals. As for the colour palette, Mokai’s founder, Karreena Bulchandani, points out the ube. It’s the colour popularly associated with taro, which is a widely used ingredient in Asian cuisines and also features on the menu here.
But what’s the objective behind these South East Asian aesthetics? It’s not just a move to capitalise on a trend. Karreena has spent her formative years living in China and travelling around South East Asia. She tells us how her experiences fuelled a passion for the distinctive cafe cultures of the places she visited. At Mokai, she aims to give Mumbaikars a taste of her adventures across those regions. Accordingly, the menu features Asian-inspired snacks, mains, desserts and baked treats, paired with an extensive range of coffee, matcha and other beverage options.
The thoughtfulness of design is reflected in the curation of the menu. Mokai ensures it digs deeper than usual to offer you choices beyond dim sums and noodles. Whether you’re in an experimental mood or not, they’ve got you covered. We began our meal with Togarashi Roasted Potatoes, served with a truffle aioli dip. Shaped like wedges, this appetiser was warming and wholesome. We played rather safe with the next choice too, opting for the Hong Kong Street-Style Steamed Wontons. This seemingly simple starter impressed us with its understated deliciousness. The flavours of the stuffing (we tried the chicken), the texture of the covering and the generous amount of sauce were balanced in satisfying harmony.
Another comfort food we can see ourselves returning for is the Katsu Chicken Sando. The shokupan bread is lightly toasted on one side (which holds the filling), leaving the other to delight you with its softness on your first bite. Between the slices, the panko fried chicken topped with katsu sauce provides the ultimate indulgence. Want something less loaded? You cannot go wrong with the Crispy Shrooms. The juicy, soy-drenched lettuce, onions, and shiitake, is a medley we’re still dreaming of.
We take a break from the binge and wander around, noting the distinctive style of our surroundings. Outside, there’s a coffee window with tempting bakes on display. This is bustling Bandra after all, and there are many who can only afford to grab and go. The first floor has seating (and a specially curated playlist) for those who can spare a few more minutes. There’s also a counter with multiple plug points if you need to work while you eat. If a long, leisurely meal is on your mind, head to the first floor (and note how the music changes).
Mokai has several all-day breakfast options, from recognisable ones like acai bowls to niche offerings like Chawanmushi (a Japanese egg custard delicacy). We were won over by the Congee topped with miso butter and mushrooms. It had an exquisite umami flavour that elevated the dish to something more than just a rice porridge. For those staying away from decadence yet seeking a filling option, this is a dish worth ordering.
For the coffee program, Mokai has collaborated with Common Man Coffee Roasters, bringing a part of Singapore’s coffee culture to Bandra. Apart from globally sourced and locally grown coffees, there are many specialty brews to explore here. There are smoothies, juices, health shots and other concoctions if you want to skip the caffeine. Don’t miss the Traveller’s menu that channels wanderlust into a selection of iconic drinks from across Asia.
Boba enthusiasts would love the Taro Boba from Taiwan, enhanced with blueberry flavour. You can also savour the goodness of this berry in the form of Mokai’s scrumptious Blueberry Matcha, made with ceremonial grade matcha. I had it customised with oat milk, and it added another dimension to the experience. We also liked Kyoto Cold Brew, where the condensed milk introduced us to a different way of enjoying our regular coffee. If you don’t want milk-based drinks, we recommend the light and rejuvenating Pandan Cooler, made with coconut water and malai (coconut meat).
We were not done with our Asian feast. Our last savoury stop was the Dan Dan noodles, which we slurped with tempeh spiced with Sichuan pepper and chilli oil. There’s no gravy or curry, but the robust flavours of the tempeh make it a complete dish. For dessert, there are classic options like Honey Butter Toast and Coconut Sticky Rice. (You may perhaps recognise these from viral videos on social media). The sweet treat that left us speechless was MOKA-misu, a tiramisu-adjacent delight. Dare we say it? We preferred this one to most of the recent ‘originals’ we tried.
We felt that Mokai lived up to its promise – this is not “yet another Bandra cafe”. We were fascinated with its thoughtful design and the scrumptious delicacies. The next time you visit Bandra, drop by for this breath of exciting and fresh (Asian) air in the city!
Where: Mokai, Newton House – 54, Chapel Road, Bandra West, Mumbai.
When: 7 am to 7 pm | Open all days of the week
Photo credit for all images: Mokai
